Applying ground to the input pins.
This is a continuation of the first post - Is It Possible To Build A Computer Controlled Feedback Circuit For HHO Generator? My personal discovery of the invention developed by Stanley Meyers, a Voltage Intensifying Circuit with very low amperage.
The Velleman k2633 Quad Relay Kit is a perfect solution for me to create the isolation between the Micro-Controller or Interface card and the pump motors that need 12 volts to operate with. One relay port will have a 12 volt shut off and the other 5 volt shut off for the cell outputs, a safety I want in there. It all so gave me more practical experience building electronic kits. This kit contained 92 solder points, on a professional pc board, it is a level two build difficulty. The kit worked perfectly, after I figured out how to test it.
I got the kit online from Altex Electronics and it was relocated to my city from Dallas. I did not have to pay shipping, but ended up pay state tax, trying to help the local economy. Max load on the relay side is 240V AC / 3A. It draws 300 ma at 9V DC. It has a LED on each of the four separate sections, and is controlled by an open collector output of (9V/15 ma) the size of the board is 76mm x 69mm x 25mm or 3″ x 2.7″ x 1″.
The kit is packed in a nice hard plastic box, which could I guess could be used to hold it after you got it built. There is also 2 small molded plastic bins to hold the lose parts. The radial components like diodes and resistors were taped together in order and easy to double check with the assembly manual. The board is well labeled to match them up on the component side.
The extra parts that are not included are, a set of metal standoffs and screw down terminal blocks. I got both from Radio Shack.
I needed this project to be easy to hook up so that why I got the terminal blocks. That replaced the post connectors the kit come with. They lined up with the board holes like it was made for it.
You start with the shortest part and work yourself up in size. I put all of the diodes and resistors in and checking my work, then solder that section. Not one part at a time. You bend the leads out a little so they will not fall out.
Then go back to the manual, and check off what you have got done. Polarity is the hardest thing to get right, some parts do not care, like a resisters, but other will not work but one way. LED’s and diodes are one way valves, they must go in right. watch for flat spots, black strips or leads at different lengths, just go slow and pay attention.
If you do not make any modifications to the kit, build it and can not get it to work, Velleman will help you fix it. The forum contains a lot of information and the moderators seams to know their stuff.
You need good lighting and a strong magnifying glass, and do not drink or eat anything that might make you hand shake, like coffee, coke or high sugar foods. If you get tired space out the work for the next day.
The board had enlarged masked component pads and wide traces for the loads. Soldering was done by holding a pointed, lightly tinted, 15 watt iron tip on the pad and as quickly as the 0.32 dia. 60/40 Rosin-Core Solder filled the space, I pull up out of the liquid solder, and it would leave a nice pointed, shinny joint. A lightly damp sponge work for keeping the tip clean. Working with the transistors I would work my way around, only doing one lead at a time, then moving to the next transistors. Then coming back after it cooled a little.
Snipping the leftover lead helps make room for the iron. It also helps to have a very strong eye piece you can look around at your work and make very sure that the solder stayed on the joint, and not touching one another. If a part needs to be remove do not panic they make wicks and suckers to clean it off and start over or replace the part.
Soldering is a skill that is learn-able, it just takes practise. watching the liquid metal and how the flux is cleaning the pad and part before the bead will stick to it, is interesting. The liquid also is attracted to the heat, and will wick to it. You learn how to use this to your advantage to get the best joint.
Remember inside the part, it has been designed to tolerate just so much time at soldering temperatures, if you think your slow, and damaging the part, get a pair of small forceps to clamp off the heat getting down the leads.
I would recomend, and buy another Velleman kit. It is a great, rewarding lesson, and a challenge in eye strain, with a dash of mental focus. The only negative I have is there needs to be a full hook up suggestions and samples in the manual. The input side resistors have to be adjust under sustain circumstance and I found no help for that, except on the website forum.
Posted by: Ron G.
